So I was finally able to catch the boost drop while I had the CMD logging. The boost controller definitely drops voltage right after I floored it and before it hit 100% throttle... DynoJet gave me some things to try to bypass the ECU control of the boost controller so I'm going to do that tomorrow. Any other thoughts? I did swap out wastegate actuators with my wifes car so that definitely wasn't the problem.

The bottom graph is the boost solenoid, middle is rpm, and top is throttle %.

 

Yeah I need to find out that problem too. I will check back on these.

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I'm so broke....but i still want more stuff for my GEN ~ LOL

So Crooked H, this is only occuring on your car, not your wife's correct?
If so, was it there all along or did it begin after you had it a while?

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If it ain't fast, I'm not happy.

'04 Honda 450R (stupid fast)

'87 Rockrawlin Wrangler
All mods, little left factory

Yep, only on my car. Wifes will peak at ~20psi and hold it until 5K then start tapering down.

I can't say 100% for sure it's always done this, but it has been doing it since at least the first of the year when I got my dyno done. The car was purchased early december. I didn't install my boost gauge installed until I installed CMD, about a week before my dyno. It seems to be getting progressively worse in that the drop is lasting longer than just 3K-4K RPMs now, probably to ~4500 now.

I've got the GrimmSpeed boost controller coming but, IMO, if the ECU is cutting boost, the GS solenoid won't help much

Well we shall see best of luck though, this tread definitely deserves a subscription.

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Missing the Shit outta my car
MODS Installed:
Road Race Motorsports Intake
Adjusted Wastegate Arm( 1.5 turns)
CP-e Catback
CP-e Downpipe( catted)
HKS Blow Off Valve
SFR Pulley Combination
Oil Breather and Accumulator from AGP TURBO
DynoJet CMD 20psi

Stock Dyno 164rwhp 190lbs Tq
Now Dyno 216 rwhp 270 lbs Tq
52rwhp and 80lbs Tq gain on a Super Flow Chassis

Subscribed as well.

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In the words of Ricky Bobby...."I wanna GO FAST!!!"

.First thing I would do is switch out your solenoids from your wifes car.
Thats a good starting point.
You dont by any chance no what your injectors are doing at that point do you?

I'll see if my wife will let me pilfer more parts. She always complains when she sees me swapping stuff from hers I've got a new solenoid on order as well, since I had planned on uprading at some point anywys.

I did another screen shot of the logs stretched and zoomed a bit. Throttle % on top, injector duty cycle in middle, and boost solenoid duty cylce on the bottom. The boost dc shown is the duty cycle coming from the ECU into the CMD.

^^^^muhahaha...you are going to owe her big time when all is said & done....You might have to hook her car up w.some new mod. At least you got both cars there to test against one another. Me & my brother have completely different drivetrains.

__________________
If it ain't fast, I'm not happy.

'04 Honda 450R (stupid fast)

'87 Rockrawlin Wrangler
All mods, little left factory

After some testing DynoJet was kind enough to help me out with it looks like the ECU is to blame. They set me up with a map that gives the CMD full control (open and closed loop) of the boost solenoid for testing. With that setup I get a nice constant 19psi from 2800-5000 then it starts to taper down slowly like normal. The map they sent is a little conservative since I don't have a wideband so it doesn't hit the full 20psi of the other tune I was running but doesn't drop 3-4psi either...

This makes me believe it's the ECU cutting boost solenoid duty cycle, since it doesn't happen when CMD ignores the ECU for boost control.

Any thoughts on what to tell the dealer when I bring it in?