DIY - Exceladyne Clutch Install - Hyundai Genesis Forum
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post #1 of 2 Old 11-01-2011, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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DIY - Exceladyne Clutch Install

Disclaimer: This is a how to guide for replacing the clutch assembly in your Genesis Coupe 2.0t. This only a guide & should be used for reference. Therefore I hold no responsibility for damage to your vehicle or injury to your person while attempting this DIY as this is only an outline & you work at your own risk.

I would give this a 3 out level of 5 difficulty if using a hydraulic rack & transmission lift, but if done on the ground using jack stands & a floor jack like I did, a 4 out of 5 may be more appropriate.

Tools needed: floor jack, jack stands, 3/8 ratchet, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 19mm sockets, short extention, T60 torx socket, torque wrench, small & large flat head screw drivers, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 19mm wrenches (preferably ratchet wrenches). Will also need red LockTite.

Helpful tools: ratchet driver (cordless impact), mechanic's pick, air compressor & 3/8 air ratchet.

Note A: If drain M/T fluid (optional), you will additionally need fluid pump, 17mm & 24mm sockets as well.

Note B: If replacing internal slave cylinder / throw out bearing (optional), you wil need 16mm wrench as well.

Note C: If you are installing Exceladyne twin disc clutch, the pilot bearing & starter ring gear must be transferred from the OEM dual mass flywheel to the Exceladyne single mass flywheel.

You may also want to use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces.

Disconnect the (-) terminal from the battery. Then lift the front of the car with floor jack at jacking point under front subframe & install jack stands at lift points behind each front wheel. Next lift the rear using either the subframe or rear differential pumpkin. I prefer the latter as it is a lower point which enables you to lift the vehicle higher. Now place jack stands at lift ponts in front of each rear wheel.



Now you can go ahead & drain the transmission fluid by removing the drain plug if you plan on changing the fluid at the same time as the clutch replacement. It is not required to remove or change the fluid to replace the clutch, however it will make the tranny slightly lighter during the process. The drain bolt is a 24mm & located on the bottom of the transmission. Tightening torque is 60~80 Nm (6.0~8.0 kgf.m, 43.4~57.8 lb-ft). It takes 2qts of fluid to refill & you will need a fluid pump since the refill hole is on the passengers side of the tranny not accessable except by a hose. I recommend RedLine MTL90 fluid.



For my transmission extraction I had to also remove the wideband AFR oxygen sensor which was too close to chance.



I found it easiest to remove all wires, cables & sensors first so they would be out of the way of wrenching.

Remove the gound wire by taking out a 10mm bolt located on the passengers side of transmission near the rear towards the tailstock.



Disconnect the back up lamp switch connector on top of the transmission located about 1/2 way back using your fingers to depress the clip to release the connector.



Remove the CKP sensor located at the front passengers side of the transmission on the bell housing by removing the 10mm bolt & place it somewhere safe out of the way.




To remove the clutch line you will need to use your mechanic's pick to pull the clip holding the clutch hose to the clutch slave cylinder line.



When removing the clutch hose I recommend having a rag handy for fluid spillage & if you have something to plug the hole wth like a rubber grommet, that may be helpful in reducing the amount of fluid lost.



You will need to detach the wiring harness from the front passenger's side of transmission bell housing using a 10mm wrench.



Now remove the 12mm starter ground bolt & move the wiring harness out of the way.



To begin the hardware removal start with removing the (6) 10mm bolts allowing the heat shield to drop down, Then slide it back as far as it will go out of the way.

With the heat shield out of the way you can move on to pulling the propellar shaft from the transmission by removing the (3) 19" bolts facing toward the front of the car. In order to do this you will have to hold the nuts on the back side of the rubber grommet using a 19" wrench to break the bolts free. Continue holding the nuts with the 19" wrench while using your ratchet along with 19" socket to loosen the bolts. I chose to use an air ratchet for this job as it takes a fair bit of cranking.
Tightening torque : 90~110 Nm (9~11 kgf.m, 65.1~79.5 lb-ft).



After removing the (3) propeller shaft bolts & nuts, pull back on the propeller shaft until it comes free, then set it aside. I actually recommend to tie it off so that its weight is not sitting on the heat shield & this gets it somewhat out of the way as well.

Now you can access the brace bracket & seperate it from the transmission by removing the (2) clips (one on either side) using a long flat head screw driver to reach & pop each hinge up away from the teeth on the brackets on top of the transmission. Once the hinge is free the pin can slide out of each side allowing the base bracket to be pushed up against the roof of the transmission tunnel.



At this point the Hyundai Service Website recommends removing the shift rod on that end of the transmission where you just removed the bracket by way of the snap pin clip. However, I suggest not removing this end of the shift rod due to the extreme difficulty of reinstalling the pin upon reassembly. It is much easier to remove the pin on the shifter end & reinstall it when going back together. You will have the shift rod dangling around with the tranny, but it is not much of an issue as it is rather still firmly in place.

Return to where the transmission bolts up to the engine in order to remove the (4) 14mm mounting bolts along the bottom from the engine side. There will be two at the bottom & one a little further up on either side. You will not be able to get a socket on the bottom two for certain & even the other two will be quite difficult, so I recommend using a 14mm ratchet wrench on these if you have one available to you.
Tightening torque : 43~49 Nm (4.3~4.9 kgf.m, 31.1~35.4 lb-ft).



Remove the (2) 14mm mounting bolts (one each side) a little further up on the engine side. These actually have a dial pin they protrude through & will be the 1st ones you installl upon reassembly. These can be gotten to with a proper sized ratchet, but may still be easier with a ratchet wrench.
Tightening torque : 35~47 Nm (3.5~4.7 kgf.m, 25.3~34.0 lb-ft).



Remove the (2) 14mm starter motor mounting bolts from transmission side. They are rather long bolts & I used my air ratchet on these to save time on these two.
Tightening torque : 43~55 Nm (4.3~5.5 kgf.m, 31.1~39.8 lb-ft).



Note: There are still 2 more bolts up top on the transmission side that we leave in place to support the tranny for now.

Optional: I chose to remove the front anti-sway bar for additional clearance when dropping the transmission down. If you choose to do this you will remove the (4) short 14mm bolts, two on each side & just let it swing down careful not to let it smack you in the head.
Tightening torque : 43~49 Nm (4.3~4.9 kgf.m, 31.1~35.4 lb-ft

Move to the rear of the transmission & place your floor jack underneath it for support. There is a raised cross that looks like the perfect place to align the jack, but it is not. Most of the weight of the tranny is near the rear & thus you want to place your jack where you see a flat area directly behind that cross. This point of support will give you the greatest balance when lowering the transmission on the jack as well as allow you to leave it there for an extended period of time. The pic below shows me using a block of wood for additional support & to help refrain from damaging the transmission, but don't bother. You will have better balance without the wood & you are not going to hurt the tranny with the jack plate.



Once the the transmission is supported, remove the (4) 14mm bolts used to hold the rear transmission support bracket in place.
Tightening torque : 50~65 Nm (5.0~6.5 kgf.m, 36.2~47.0 lb-ft).

Once the rear transmission brace is free & the transmission is still supported by the floor jack, go back up to the top of the bell housing & remove the last (2) 14mm bolts up top on the transmission side. Once these bolts are out you will slightly lower the jack & work the tranny back to the rear of the vehicle until it breaks free.

Note: Be careful not to damage wires, lines or hoses while removing the transmission or when reinstalling.

Continue lowering the jack slowly while backing the tranny away from the engine, bringing the transmission assembly level with the ground so that it may balance on the floor jack.

Note: During removal of the transmission without the use of a lift & pneumatic trasmission jack, the angle needed to extract it may possibly cause the internal slave cylinder snap ring clip to get hung on the clutch cover prongs & pop off. If this happens do not fret, it can be reinstalled by compressing the slave cylinder spring while popping it back into place.

If you plan on replacing the internal slave cylinder while doing the clutch swap, I recommend moving the tranny off of the jack & sliding it out from under the vehicle to be worked on for additonal stability.



There will be (3) 10mm bolts that will have to be removed along with disconnecting the metal line that runs from the slave cylinder to the outside of the bell housing which connects to the clutch hose. To seperate the line you will need to hold one side with a 14mm wrench & the other with a 16mm wrench. Or if you plan on replacing the line as well as the slave cylinder you can leave it connected & just remove the grommet that sits in the hole that the line passed through. The grommet is cut so that it can be removed easily.




Once the tranny is out of the way you can begin disassembling the OEM clutch.

Start by removing the (6) 12mm clutch cover bolts.



My OEM clutch disc doesn't look too bad.



Clutch cover side not too bad either.



Now for the flywheel. In order to break the (7) T60 flywheel torx bolts loose you will need to put a wrench on the dampner pulley crankshaft bolt. I used a 7/8 wrench for this allowing it to turn until it fell tight against another pulley. Once it was braced, I returned to underneath the vehicle & broke each of the flywheel bolts loose. This will take a little bit of grunt.





Installation

Note: For the Exceladyne clutch you will have to make a few preparations that are not necessary for most other clutch installs which I will go over at this time. If you are not installing the Exceladyne twin disc you can skip on to where I describe reassembly.

Exceladyne twin disc clutch parts stacked in order of installation.



Seperate parts except for discs & friction plates which are still zip tied together in their appropriate order.



Clutch discs & basket.



Clutch assemblies comparison.



First off the Exceladyne clutch does not come with a pilot bearing, so you will need to press out your old pilot bearing from you dual mass flywheel using a hydraulic press & then press it back into the Exceladyne single mass flywheel. You will want to make sure that it is on the engine side of the flywheel with the seal facing towards the transmission.

Prior to bearing being pressed in.



After bearing has been pressed in.



In addition, the Exceladyne flywheel does not come with a starter ring gear, so the OEM one must be used. In order to remove the starter ring gear from the OEM flywheel it has to be heated lightly using a torch so that it will expand enough to be taken off. Once it is off it will need to be set on the new Exceladyne single mass flywheel & allowed to cool. As it cools it will shrink to fit nice & snug on the new flywheel.

Pics of OEM dual mass flywheel with starter ring gear still in place & new Exceladyne single mass flywheel that starter ring gear needs to be swapped to.




Prior to starter ring being installed.



After starter ring being installed.



Now you will need to install the clutch basket ring onto Exceladyne single mass flywheel using (18) size 8 hex bolts supplied with clutch. You will do this by inserting each bolt through the SMF from the engine side & threading each into every hole on the basket's threaded side. Apply red LockTite to threads of each & every one prior to installing. Once all of them are installed you will need to torque them down to just under 20 ft/lbs.







Time to install the single mass flywheel using the same (7) T60 torx bolts that were used on the OEM one.
Tightening torque : 90~110 Nm (9~11 kgf.m, 65.1~79.5 lb-ft).



We can now slide the first clutch disc into place followed by the friction plate & then the second disc along with the top friction plate. These pieces are designed to only go one way so no worries of getting it wrong. Besides, Beyond Redline ships them with tie straps to ensure correct order of installation. Once in place, use clutch alignment tool to ensure proper gear alignment for pilot shaft.



Exceladyne clutch cover can then be installed using (8) size 8 suppied hex bolts & washers provided with clutch. Apply red LockTite to threads of each & every one prior to installing. Once all of them are installed you will need to torque them down to just under 20 ft/lbs.



to be continued....

Sponsored By: Columbus Body Works / ARK Performance / Modern Automotive Performance / Forged Performance

Last edited by Tufast; 11-03-2011 at 09:03 AM. Reason: spelling
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post #2 of 2 Old 11-02-2011, 04:58 AM Thread Starter
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The Install

Transmission reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.

Start by placing the transmission back on the jack if it was removed. Make sure to place it on the flat area behind the cross so it is sitting flush on the jack plate. Then move the jack carefully back under the car aligning it with the transmission tunnel & slightly back from the engine. Once you are satisfied with the location begin lifting very slowly paying close attention to its balance. As it gets higher in the transmission tunnel move it forward slowly so that it never touches the roof of the tunnel & can move freely. As you approach the engine take extra precaution to see that the transmission input shaft is aligned with the clutch discs & flywheel. It is important that the tranny be level with the engine at this point. Once you have the transmission up against the engine as far as it will go with the input shaft inserted, you will find that there is still a small gap of about an inch or so. This gap will have to be drawn together using the bolts that connect the engine to the transmission.

The (4) shorter 14mm bolts that look like they could self tap are to be used along the bottom of the transmission on the engine side & the (4) slightly longer 14mm bolts are to be used on each side just above the shorter ones & up top on transmission side.

Start with (2) of the slightly longer 14mm bolts installing them from the engine side just above the bottom 4 bolt holes. These (2) 14mm bolts will actually go through a dial pin on each side used to help align the transmission with the engine. Use these to draw the transmission to the engine some, tightening until they become snug.
Tightening torque : 35~47 Nm (3.5~4.7 kgf.m, 25.3~34.0 lb-ft)

Next install the (4) shorter 14mm bolts into the lower 4 bolt holes along the bottom from the engine side until they are snug careful not to pull the bottom of the transmission in further than the upper portion. In other words keep the gap even all the way around as you seat the tranny to the engine.
Tightening torque : 43~49 Nm (4.3~4.9 kgf.m, 31.1~35.4 lb-ft)

Note: The bottom (4) bolts will have to be tightened with a wrench, because a ratchet will not fit in the limited space available.

Now you can install the other (2) longer 14mm bolts up top on the transmission side until they are snug.
Tightening torque : 35~47 Nm (3.5~4.7 kgf.m, 25.3~34.0 lb-ft)

Finally you can install the (2) long 14mm starter motor mounting bolts until snug.
Tightening torque : 43~55 Nm (4.3~5.5 kgf.m, 31.1~39.8 lb-ft)

Note: I used air ratchet on these due to the length of each bolt.

Reinstall the front anti-sway bar using the (4) short 14mm bolts removed from it.
Tightening torque : 43~49 Nm (4.3~4.9 kgf.m, 31.1~35.4 lb-ft)

Once all bolts around the bell housing are snug you can tighten them down a little at a time keeping the gap between the engine & the transmission constantly even until they finally come together. Now that it is seated you can begin to torque the bolts down by hand & finally with a torque wrench using the above supplied torque specs.

Note: Not all bolts will be accessable with the torque wrench & socket, so do as many as possible paying attention to how much effort it took to tighten each. After which you will torque the final few that you could not get on with the torque wrench by hand guestimating how much torque is adequate based off of how much effort it took on the others.

Reinstall the rear transmission bracket by installing the (4) 14mm bolts. Then set aside the supporting jack.
Tightening torque : 50~65 Nm (5.0~6.5 kgf.m, 36.2~47.0 lb-ft)

Reinstall the the shifter base bracket using the (2) pins you removed during disassembly pushing them in from the outside inward & rotating down until the clip catches in the teeth holding them in place.

Note: These are assymetrical & therefore will only work on one particular side R & L.

Move to the other end of the shift rod near the shift lever & reinstall the pin to hold it in place followed by the locking clip you removed during disassembly. Next reinstall the boot cover back over underside of the shifter assembly.

Reinstall the exhaust heat shield using the (6) 10mm bolts that were removed.

Note: Washers may be needed on a couple of them to help hold it in place.

Reinstall the propellar shaft by sliding it forward until it falls into place aligning the bolt holes. Then reinsert the (3) 19mm bolts facing toward the engine followed by their nuts on the other side. Tighten each one down using ratchet on the bolt & wrench on the nut.
Tightening torque : 90~110 Nm (9~11 kgf.m, 65.1~79.5 lb-ft)

Note: I used air ratchet on these due to the length of each bolt & effort needed to tighten them.

Finally reInstall the misc hoses, lines & sensors.
Reinstall the CKP sensor by installing the 10mm bolt.
Reinstall the starter ground with 12mm bolt.
Reinstall wiring harness with 10mm bolt.
Reinstall the clutch hose to the C.S.C assembly inserting the clip back in to hold it in place.
Reconnect the back up lamp switch connector on top of tranny.
Reinstall the ground wire near tail stock on passengers side by installing 10mm bolt.

Refill the transmission fluid if it was drained using the fluid pump.

Bleed the clutch system.

While the car is still on jack stands have someone assist you by sitting in the car & depressing the clutch pedal when asked to do so during the process. You will need a 10mm wrench to loosen the bleeder valve on the C.S.C assembly.

First remove the reservoir cap & place a fluid drain pan under the car where the clutch bleeder valve is. Get under the vehicle & remove the little rubber cover from the bleeder valve. Then while holding the C.S.C assembly, turn the bleeder nut with the 10mm wrench until fluid emits. Continue allowing fluid to drain for a little while, this is known as a gravity bleed & will get most of the air out of the system. Once you feel most of the air is out, tighten the bleeder nut. Return to the reservoir to add fluid to the full mark & reinstall the cap.

Now have your assistant depress the clutch pedal & release it (pull it back up if necessary) several times (approx 10) to build pedal pressure. Return underneath the vehicle & loosen the bleeder nut while your assistant is holding the pedal down on the final pump of the series. Once fluid stops flowing, tighten the nut back up & ask your assistant to release the pedal (pull it up if necessary).

This time have your assistant depress the clutch pedal & release it (pull it back up if necessary) 3 times to build pedal pressure. While still underneath the vehicle, loosen the bleeder nut while your assistant is holding the pedal down on the final pump of the series. Once fluid stops flowing tighten the nut back up & ask your assistant to release the pedal (pull it up if necessary). Continue the 3 pump series for a total of 3 times.

Finally have your assistant depress the clutch pedal & release it (pull it back up if necessary) 1 single time to build pedal pressure. While still underneath the vehicle, loosen the bleeder nut while your assistant is holding the pedal down. Once fluid stops flowing tighten the nut back up & ask your assistant to release the pedal (pull it up if necessary). Continue with the single pump series for a total of 10 times.

Note: There will more air in the system if the internal slave cylinder was replaced during the process & this is the reason for the elaborate bleeding process I described above. Those who do not replace the slave cylinder assembly may not require this much bleeding, however I have found that the hydraulic system on our cars does require a bit more bleeding than most with a slight variance on method.

Connect (-) terminal to the battery.

Test drive....

Sponsored By: Columbus Body Works / ARK Performance / Modern Automotive Performance / Forged Performance

Last edited by Tufast; 11-03-2011 at 02:13 PM. Reason: updated
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