Comprehensive brake info thread - Hyundai Genesis Forum
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post #1 of 23 Old 04-15-2009, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
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Comprehensive brake info thread

I thought I'd start this thread as a container for all sorts of brake information for the GC as it could help folks in the future.

In here I expect to eventually see feedback, thoughts and discussion on brakes to help folks who need the info.

I will preface this by starting off with a very important message.

Brakes are a no joke deal. If you are new to them get some help from someone who knows what they are doing and have them teach you.

Next thing I'd like to do is a quick overview of changing pads on the track edition (following this post).

As others have more info PLEASE contribute.

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post #2 of 23 Old 04-15-2009, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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Pad change info for the track edition.

The track edition GC comes with some pretty nice monoblock Brembo brakes. They are big, and they serious, and for someone who is new to them they can be quite daunting.

Hopefully we can help with some information and a quick overview of them.

First up is the caliper. Both front and rear are very similar, although different size, and use a different pad.

Here's a quick pic of one of them to get you an idea:


So, what you have is the caliper.

In it are four pistons. Two on each side. The press down on the pads which press on the caliper from each side.

The pads are held in place with two retainer/slider pins. They are just that - pins that hold the pads in place, and still allow the pads to move in and out relative to the face of the rotor.

There are a number of techniques to holding these pins in place, but in the case of the GC that is done by the anti-rattle clip. So, we're looking at two functions for that part - hold the pins in place, and keep the pads from moving around too much so they don't make noise by holding everything tight.

Here's another view:


Take a close look at the pins. You'll notice how they are a little bit thinner in the middle where the clip contacts them. This is to help keep them from sliding out.

Also take note that there are TWO bleeders on this model of caliper. More on bleeding brakes later.

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post #3 of 23 Old 04-15-2009, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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To start to get the pads out you need to move the pins a bit.

Here's a quick pic of how we start:


Using a punch a hammer you can start to drive the pin out. Pushing back on the rattle clip a bit to help disengage it from the pin will help with this.

Another pic:


The pin removed:


Notice the bit on the top end. That also helps keep the pin in place a bit.

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post #4 of 23 Old 04-15-2009, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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The caliper with the upper pin removed:


At this point you can slip the clip from out behind the lower pin.


Caliper with the lower pin still in place, and the clip removed:


Caliper with both pins removed:

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post #5 of 23 Old 04-15-2009, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Now to remove the pads, and put in new ones you need to push the pistons back into the caliper.

There are a few techniques to doing this, but there's some tips.

1) Do one pad at a time. In other words, compress one side, put new pad in place, and then do the other side. If you do both then you'll just be fighting the pistons on the opposite side because as you push one side in, the other side will push out.
2) When compressing the pistons you can approach the fluid two ways.
a) Leave it be, but when doing this do remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir.
b) You can crack open one of the bleeders (this will require you bleeding the brakes - upcoming paper)


First is the pliers technique:


Use some pliers to push back the pistons by clamping on the caliper and the backing plate. Do this carefully so you don't chip the finish.


Second is the wedge technique.
Jam a screwdriver between the pad and the rotor and push the pistons in.


Third is the pad lever technique.
We failed to get a pic of this.
Wiggle a pad out part way with the pad material facing the rotor. Use it as a lever to push the pistons back in.


Fourth is the tool technique.
There are some special tools for doing this for both monoblock and slider style calipers. We've never needed them, but if you have them then use them.

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post #6 of 23 Old 04-15-2009, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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The pads.

The shiny metal bits on the back and anti-squeal shims. They will transfer to your new pads.

Notice the lower right corner of the left pad. This is the wear indicator. When the pad gets low it'll lightly rub the rotor and make noise telling you it's time for new pads.

On the GC that needs to go on the outboard side as there's no room in the inboard side.



The face of the pads:


On the left is stock with the funky machined material that AMS discovered.
On the right is a Stoptech/Centric Posiquiet Semi-metallic pad. We love this pad for the street on the STi as it's very linear in braking, almost no dust, almost no noise, and very inexpensive. We're testing a full set (which is why we did the brakes in the first place) to see if the same holds true for the GC.

Pad thickness - it's difficult to see due to the machined material on the stock pad:

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post #7 of 23 Old 04-15-2009, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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New pads in place:


Here is a tip:
Skip the spray on backing plate glue. Instead use silver or if you can get it copper anti-seize. Apply it to the BACK of the pads.

Permatex has a new stuff out with ceramic microbeads in it as well. I have heard that it's good, but have not had a chance to try it myself so I can't comment beyond that.


Insert lower pin:


Tap into place:


Fully seated pin:


Hook the clip around the lower pin.

Push inward up top, and put the upper pin in place.

A few more small tips.
  • Make sure the pins are free of dirt and crud.
  • Apply a small bit of anti-seize to the pins to help the pads slide smoothly.
  • Apply a small bit of anti-seize to the clip where it hits the backing plate on the pad.
  • Give your brakes a few pumps to make sure all is good before you bed the pads in.
  • Since the clutch is coupled to the brake flud give it a few pumps too.
  • BED the brakes!!! More on this coming in a bit.

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post #8 of 23 Old 04-15-2009, 09:36 AM
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Are you worried about the brake bias being changed do to the surface area of the new pads being larger than the stock pads?

"You know what? This will decimate all... after we put about fifteen grand or more under the hood. If we have to, overnight some parts from Korea."

SpecRacer: "wow...you guys pay WAY to much attention to male models...."
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post #9 of 23 Old 04-15-2009, 09:43 AM
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Wow, complete DIY manual here. AWESOME. That was a lot of nice work. Looking forward to a performance review on the new pads also!! Stickied.

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post #10 of 23 Old 04-15-2009, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpecRacer View Post
Are you worried about the brake bias being changed do to the surface area of the new pads being larger than the stock pads?
A little, but not much due to swept area being the same. we're more concerned with wear overall. This is also part of the reason we're testing before we offer the part for sale.

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