DIY - Aeroforce Interceptor Scan Gauge Install - Hyundai Genesis Forum
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post #1 of 5 Old 01-29-2011, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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DIY - Aeroforce Interceptor Scan Gauge Install

I decided to move my Aeorforce Interceptor scan guage over to the left of the instrument cluster near the tripometer & furtherest left A/C vent after seeing another member on the other site's pics of thiers located there. I'm doing this purely for asthetic reasons as I belive the prior location was most visible, but the new location is not blocked by anything & you still have a direct line of sight. Of course depending on your height, you may have to adjust the steering wheel for best results. I took my dash apart to see what was on the other side prior to doing any drilling for this project. Getting between the tripometer switches & A/C vent w/o hitting either one is tricky, but if you position your hole right where mine is in the following pics, you will be fine. Even if you take your dash apart like I did, you still have to put it back together for the drilling in order to keep the dash secure while you are applying pressure. So save yourself some time & just position your gauge where mine is. I still have a few mm of room on either side.

Disclaimer: I hold no repsonsibility for any damage you cause to your vehicle or any injury you incur from attempting this DIY as this is only a outline for this modification.

For this job the only tools you will need are common sense, good judgement a drill & a 2" hole saw bit. If you install the brace from behind the gauge, you will need a screw driver (preferably cordless) & a small socket to fit the nuts that hold the bracket in place.



First you will want to ready your drill by installing the hole saw bit. Then adjust your steering wheel tilt all the way down. Next you will want to place the drill bit of the hole saw in the the center of where the gauge will go while looking down the side of the hole saw to confirm with line of sight that you are not going to end up cutting into the A/C vent or the tripometer reset buttons.

FYI: The tripometer switch's base that mounts it to the dash from behind is broader than the switches & goes out a little further, so don't position your hole saw bit too close to them. If you look in my pics, my hole comes very close to the A/C vent & for good reason.




Once you have the hole drilled, go ahead & run the wire from the back of the scan gauge to the OBDII connector under the driver's side of the dash routing it down the hole you just drilled/cut out.

Note: There is another wire that came with the Aeroforce gauge that is not needed for our cars, so I just stored it away.

Go from underneath dash & pull the wire taught to where there is only slight slack to the gauge. Take any additional wire & wind it up with a zip tie to a dash bracket. Now just push your gauge in place, the hole should be rather tight & the gauge won't move once you have pressed it all the way down. Now this is a very light gauge & with the tight fit along with the wiring plugged in from behind, I didn't feel the need to install the bracket to hold it in place.

However, if you really want to be safe & want to install the bracket to reinforce the gauge mounting, I have the following steps to assist you. You can disassemble the dash using a phillips screw driver (recommend cordless) & a plasitc door puller.



Begin by popping off the fuse door cover.



Then pull back the body weatherstrip.



Now you can pop off the rest of the fuse block cover using the plastic door pullers as need be.



Next you will want to remove the two phillips screws from behind where the fuse cover trim was that hold the lower steering column shroud in place.




Remove the two phillips screws at the bottom of the lower steering column shroud next.




Now you can pop the plastic lower steering column shroud loose by starting on the fuse box side near the door jamb, but do this very carefully so not to break the clips.



And then just let it dangle.



Now take the one phillips screw out of the A/C vent & pop the vent out.





Now that you have plenty of access to the back of your gauge, take your bracket & install it with the feet facing the gauge & the two holes in the base sliding over the two threaded studs. Once in place, take your two small washers & nuts that came with the hardware pack the bracket was in installing them over the bracket securing it to the backside of the dash. Snug them down with a 1/4 drive ratchet & socket that fits the nut.



Reassemble the dash in the reverse order that you disassembled it.




Your done!!!

Sponsored By: Columbus Body Works / ARK Performance / Modern Automotive Performance / Forged Performance

Last edited by Tufast; 01-31-2011 at 01:59 PM. Reason: updated
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post #2 of 5 Old 01-29-2011, 08:58 AM
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Another great DIY bro. Not going to do this but good job all the same.

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post #3 of 5 Old 10-14-2011, 06:43 AM
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Want to come out and do this install for me

Clutchmaster Stage II Clutch
Clutchmaster Flywheel
PA Reflash w/Custom Tune
Deatschwerks 550cc Injectors
UR 3" High-flow Cat
UR 3" Downpipe
Custom 3" Exhaust (no mufflers)
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**Coming**
Beyond Redline GT2871R Turbo upgrade
Winter tuning goal is 320WHP and 300WTQ
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post #4 of 5 Old 10-14-2011, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoostedGen2010 View Post
Want to come out and do this install for me
If you are near to me & willing to schedule a time to stop by, I would be glad to help as this is a fairly simple mod.

Sponsored By: Columbus Body Works / ARK Performance / Modern Automotive Performance / Forged Performance
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post #5 of 5 Old 10-14-2011, 06:12 PM
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Oh I need that and the the two step install... I got some family in GA maybe I can get a road trip together next summer

Clutchmaster Stage II Clutch
Clutchmaster Flywheel
PA Reflash w/Custom Tune
Deatschwerks 550cc Injectors
UR 3" High-flow Cat
UR 3" Downpipe
Custom 3" Exhaust (no mufflers)
CP-e Intake
StopTech Brake Upgrade Kit
Beyond Redline FMIC
264WHP and 314WTQ

**Coming**
Beyond Redline GT2871R Turbo upgrade
Winter tuning goal is 320WHP and 300WTQ
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