Note: Work at own risk as this is just a guide for repair & I hold no responsibility for injury or defects in final product.
1st, let me say that this was a PITA & I give it a difficulty level 3 out of 5, mainly due to the amount of time required. I recommed setting aside most of a day so you don't rush.
Tools needed: 10mm socket or wrench (impact preferably), phillips screw driver (cordless driver preferably), needle nose pliers, plastic door pullers & heat gun.
I want to also say that I do realize Hyundai Service states to remove bumper prior to head lamps, but I disagree & prefer to do it the other way around. The one time I removed the bumper 1st, I broke a bumper retainer clip on each side upon head lamp removal. The bumper filled the gap in the clips on the radiator support where the bumper slid in place under the head lamps. But when the bumper was removed, it left a gap at the retainer clip & when I pulled the head lamp loose its force came directly in contact with that plastic clip & broke it. There are 3 on each side & I only broke the outer clip on each side where the bumper mounts.
The far right of these 3 is broken off
To remove the head lamp you will need a 10mm wrench or better yet 10mm socket on the end of an impact. I went with the latter to save time. Once you remove the two 10mm bolts from the top of the head lamp assembly, remove the plastic phillips screw holding the bumper cover on near the grille & head lamp, you are ready to pop it out. Gently lift on the lower edge of the assembly and pull lightly outward jiggling it ever so slightly during this process. It should become loose after a short time.
Note: Be careful to work the lower most & uppermost corners around their respective obstacles.
I recommend also removing these plastic plugs on each side & pulling the bumper loose to give more room to get the bottom of the head lamp out. As soon as you remove the head lamp, look under neath for the wiring attatched to it that goes to the lights. There will be a clip holding the wiring to the assembly.
Use a small pair of needle nose pliers (any pliers) & hold the back of the clip flanges in together so that the clip slides away from assemby. This can sometimes be a PITA, so I don't reinstall the wiring clip to the bottom of the assembly due to how often I remove them. Finally unplug the wiring harness going to the lamp assembly by pushing in on the clip & find a safe place to store the lamp.
Now that the lamps are out, you will have 2 very smal screws running along the backside edge of the assembly that must be removed. The screws go right through the adhesive to the clear side of the lens. Once you have removed the 4 baby screws, then comes the fun. I borrowed a heat gun from Columbus Body Works & highly recommend using a heat gun when possible to avoid stinking up your house trying this in your oven. Plus it gives you the abilitiy to focus on one spot that is problematical while allowing the rest of the assembly to sit in your lap (not hot all over) & reheat that spot repeatively easliy. You will have to bend the plastic clips outward so that the lens can be slid off. I recommend using plastic door pullers to do this & to seperate the lens from the housing. This is a PITA & It will take a while, so stick with it & eventually they will come apart.
You will have a couple of small screws to remove that hold the chrome surround to the lens. After those screws are removed, you will need to lightly jiggle the chrome surround until it comes away from the lens, all the while trying not to touch the inside of the lens or the portion of the chrome that faces out of the lens. Once finally apart, take care not to touch the inside of the lens or the chrome backing surrounding the lamps. If there are any spots on the inside of the lens or if there are finger prints etc on the chrome surrounds, use brake clean if available or use amonia-free Windex on a rag to clean. Once apart, place the lens in a safe place. Now take the chrome surround & remove the aamber turn signal lens & the projector low beam surround from the rest of the assembly. When doing this, you will need to jiggle them apart lightly not to break any plastic tabs etc. Once apart you can prep the parts with the brake clean or Windex & then use a tack rag prior to painting. I chose to paint the projection & high mounted running lamp surrounds with SEM Landau satin black to set it off from the rest of the dark (5 coats) of NiteShades. I also chose to not reinstall the high mount running lamp lens, which gives it more of a sinister look at the cost of the clean lines the lens took with it.
Going back together is no more mind boggling than one would imagine, just time consuming. You have to make sure you got all of the sealer hot enough to push the 2 halves back together w/o melting the plastic assembly itself. Be very careful not to get the sealer on the lens or surrounds during assembly & if you do, take care to clean it up right then. Once the two halves have been sealed back together, make sure to heat up & bend over the plastic clips that hold the lens in place. Now let the assemblies cool for a while until cool to the touch. Now your ready to pop them back in, but don't forget to plug in the power from the wiring harness. Finally reinstall the 2 10mm bolts on each side & the 2 plastic push pin screws on each side near the grille.
Thats it....You're Done!