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| Engine and Turbos This section is for discussing engine parts (for example, bottom or top end), turbos (upgrades, porting, etc), or other engine related parts or swaps. |
| Engine and Turbos Thread, Good info on our turbos!!!! in Hyundai Genesis Discussions - Performance/Technical; AGP Wastegate Actuator Instructions - The Be-All End-All - SRT Forums - SRT4, SRT6, SRT8, SRT10 & Dodge Forum If ... |
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AGP Wastegate Actuator Instructions - The Be-All End-All - SRT Forums - SRT4, SRT6, SRT8, SRT10 & Dodge Forum If you plan on running a new waste gate without a tune to incorporate it into the ECU the link above provide instructions and answers to many questions on this. Here is some info on our turbo. Stealth 316 - Turbo Upgrade Guide Basically the TD04L-13T will flow about 385 - 400 CFM and is capable of about 256 Hp. I cannot find if this rating is for the crank or to the wheels. Another interesting note is, In fairness the stock turbo does not live long if pushed this hard, at 18 -20 psi everyday. These two sites were a great read and gave me a somber out look about the power potential of the stock car. I guess upgrading sooner than later is in my plans. So all those people that are pushing 20+ PSI were all gonna feel it soon and figure out how long our stock turbos will last. Hard Figures Update I did the math for the 22 Lbs/Min flow rate for the PA re-flash and got 318.073 CFM using the 18 - 20 PSI PA Re-Flash at 6000 RPM with a Temperature constant of 85 degrees Fahrenheit. So in a matter of estimate the PA re-flash is making the turbo flow 318 - 330 CFM which is on the edge of its efficiency but still within acceptable limits. Post from another site that helped me convert: I apologize to those who already know this stuff, but for me it was a great learning experience, so I wanted to share. First, here are the formulas, where P is absolute pressure and T is temperature in degrees Rankine (Fahrenheit + 460): To get pounds of air (lbs/min) when you already know the CFM: P(psia) x V(cu.ft./min) x 29 (10.73 x T(deg R)) To get the volume of air (CFM) when you already know the lbs/min: n(lbs/min) x 10.73 x T(deg R) (29 x P(psia)) Someone had asked a question on converting a 36 lbs/min flow rate to CFM and after doing the calculations, the numbers I arrived at didn't look right. I e-mailed the author of the page, John Estill (a very nice and helpful guy, BTW) and he set me straight: *Quote* If you are trying to convert a lb/min number from a compressor map to cfm, then you are using nontypical values, which is why the number is lower than expected. 15 psi gauge, or 15 psi boost = 29.7 psia, which is not what you have at the compressor inlet! Turbonetics maps are done assuming a standard inlet pressure of 13.949 psia (about 1.5" Hg vacuum) and 85F. At these conditions your 36 lb/min of air flow = 520 cfm. *End Quote* So, in summary, when using these formulas to do calculations on lbs/min and CFM, use 13.949 for psia, and use 545 (which is 85 degrees F + 460 to get degrees Rankine, or deg R, in the formula) for the temp value. I don't know if I can answer detailed questions about this info, but I'd be happy to try. You can always e-mail John Estill about it, too-- his e-mail link is at the top of his page (the one I provided the link for above).
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HGC Light Blue 2.0T Built on 12 / 23 / 08 Accepted on: 4 / 7 / 2009 Last edited by NateV; 01-29-2010 at 08:01 PM. |
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^^^Good info Nate. I went ahead & stickied the thread. I will finish reading later when I have time.
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If it ain't fast, I'm not happy. ![]() '04 Honda 450R (stupid fast) '87 Rockrawlin Wrangler All mods, little left factory |
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Ya, good read for sure. Generally, thrust bearing turbos don't last long when run at the hairy edge of their efficiency. Being that 20-22 psi is maxing out the stock unit, that's putting a lot of extra pressure and rotational force on the bearings and seals as well as introducing higher heat levels to the turbine/center section/compressor. Also, generally speaking, thrust bearing turbos have an optimum, designed sustainable life range. For the stock TD04-13t unit, the turbo is designed to operate reliably in the range of 14-16psi whereas nicer journal or ball bearing turbos will have a wider sustainable range.
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2010 Nord Gray 2.0t Track - featuring Beyond Redline, PowerAXEL, Cp-e, Mishimoto |
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Well I only plan on running the stock turbo for about a year & then sending it to Buschur to have the upgrade done running that for about a year, then finally getting the HTA3076R.
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If it ain't fast, I'm not happy. ![]() '04 Honda 450R (stupid fast) '87 Rockrawlin Wrangler All mods, little left factory |
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Doesn't the PowerAXEL reflash push the stock boost to 20psi? What kind of implications are we talking about for a daily driver?
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'02 Acura RSX |
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Shorter turbo life
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Installed: Debaged, Rear Wing Badge, 200 turbo badge, PowerAxel Reflash, pedals and strutbar, Stance GR+ coilovers, cp-e intake, cp-e catless downpipe, cp-e CBE, LoveFab manifold, GrimmSpeed Ported & Polished and Thermal Coated Intake manifold, throttle body and turbo, ATP BOV adapter pipe with HKS BOV, HKS oil cap, HKS radiator cap, GReddy Infometer Touch, superdrift spacers, M&S Type D grill, M&S fog surrounds. |
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^^^ What he said. Granted, at that level the life-span will be notably decreased IF significant load cycles are applied to the turbo (i.e. "ragging" on it constantly). The biggest thing is that people need to see the stock turbo for what it is; too small for the motor! Pushing it hard WILL decrease it's lifespan and WON'T net the gains it should because, again, it's just too small to flow enough/maintain pressure at higher rpms. Bottom line here is that if you want more power reliably over the long term, upgrade the turbo or leave the stock one alone. Just my 0.02
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2010 Nord Gray 2.0t Track - featuring Beyond Redline, PowerAXEL, Cp-e, Mishimoto |
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Quote:
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Bump for updated figures and data edited to initial post.
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HGC Light Blue 2.0T Built on 12 / 23 / 08 Accepted on: 4 / 7 / 2009 |
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#10
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I have a friend that runs a HTA3076R on his evo.Great turbo but he runs a 8500rpm redline. |
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