Pretty good writeup, but there are a few issues. The example of static vs dynamic camber is not quite correct. I assume it was simplified for those that don't have a great handle on suspension dynamics.
The example assumed no camber gain/loss in the suspension, only static camber minus body roll. This car sits very low and I'd imagine the control arms are nearly parallel with the ground already, so this may be close to accurate. For example, under cornering loads, the outside suspension may gain -.5 degrees of camber putting that example at -.5 static plus -.5 camber gain minus +3 body roll netting +2 total degrees of camber. Not good for cornering.
Another issue...no tire these days likes 0 degrees of dynamic camber. They all like negative camber, let's say -.5 degrees. That means we need to add -2.5 (-.5 minus +2 current dynamic) degrees of camber to have a happy tire in the corner for a total static of -3 degrees (-.5 current static + -2.5 adjustment). Most street cars will probably do well with -1.5 degrees of static camber. It should handle well and have pretty good wear. Track cars can ultimately dial in settings by using tire temperatures and will often have different camber settings for the right and left depending on primarily CW or CCW track configuration.
I 100% agree that this car has an issue with lack of bump travel. Previous gen miata owners can purchase modified top hats as lowering the car much at all will permanently set the suspension on the bump stops. This is a common problem with many McStrut cars these days.
I have an issue with the OP's spring tuning ideas, but every tuner/engineer has his/her own style. Motion ratio, front/rear weight distribution, etc is very important. "The number of oscillations is referred to as the frequency" this is incorrect. The rate of the oscillation is the frequency, the number of oscillations has to do with how close we are to critical damping. I will admit I don't have much suspension tuning advice for grandma's grocery getter. On track, however, it is very common to have much different spring rates at the front and rear of the car so that the frequencies at each end are also very different. Dampers control the movement of the unsprung mass (tire, wheel, brakes, some suspension - high frequency) and ultimately we want the tire in contact with the pavement at all times. Dampers also control movement of the sprung mass (chassis, etc - low frequency) and determine the rate at which weight moves front to rear, side to side.
This car will have a serious problem with camber curves. Once lowered, the front suspension will lose camber under cornering forces (very bad for handling...why the OP mentions good springs will be stock height or higher) and the rear will gain camber. Compromises can be made, but this will allow the rear of the car to have more grip than the front (read understeer). If any of you have watch Aussie V8 SuperCar Challenge, you will notice they dial in SERIOUS amounts of static negative camber up front. This is the reason. Those cars also have multilink rears and McStrut fronts.
We haven't discussed antiroll bars, I'll let somebody introduce that into the equation. I will advise you all, bars are the icing on the cake, and not the base itself. This is the last suspension component to be tuned. Remember, this car has independent suspension. Swaybars (especially large ones) remove that luxery.
Last edited by brads03zx3; 04-15-2009 at 11:17 AM.